Murcia's Sweet Paprika: Living And Ancient Agricultural Traditions

Our second journey takes us south of Murcia to an area surrounded by a constantly surprising region in which farming traditions refuse to die out and the ancient methods prevail and prosper to this very day.

Our journey starts in the centre of the city of Murcia, which was conquered by Jaime I in 1266, where you will find the 18th Century Bishop's Palace, the Casino and the Roman Theatre, all of which have survived a number of fires over the centuries.  Moving away from the historic centre, a quiet and peaceful walk brings you to the Botanical Garden, where you can enjoy the beauty of the numerous rustic houses.

Taking the N-340 south from the provincial capital, you will come to Alcantarilla.  Here, the first stop on your agenda should be the region's Ethnological Museum; a symbol of the ancient and essential farming culture in the area.  Its well-kept gardens contain such items as a typical Murcian cottage, a Moorish kiln and a well. Inside, there is a large waterwheel that, until the 15th century, originally took water from the irrigation channels to the aqueduct at Los Arcos.  Opposite the museum and next to the place called Agua Salá, there is a small spring, the waters of which are said to have medicinal value and are locally known as ‘Viagra Falls’.

Through the streets of Alcantarilla and Alhama

In the Plaza de San Pedro stands the Town Hall, a neo-Renaissance structure with an entrance topped off with four round arches. The main street (Calle Mayor) has a concentration of 20th Century modernist coloured houses however in the historical quarter stands the 18th Century church of San Roque, and in the Plaza de San Francisco de Paula, the remains of the 18th Century monastery of the Padres Mínimos.  On the hill of Campoamor is the peculiar raised feature of the neo-baroque church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. 

Continuing along the route N-340, you come to Alhama de Murcia. Hidden in its streets are stately homes, and the significant and notable buildings of the Town Hall and the Centro Cultural V Centenario, both in Plaza de Las Américas.  They date from around the turn of the 20th Century, when they were installed by affluent local families in a space of irrigated market gardens surrounding the urban centre.   The most interesting corner of Alhama is in Plaza Vieja, at the foot of the ruined castle, which was originally a watchtower built by the Moors.  Colourfully painted houses, with wooden canopies over their balconies and grilled windows, encircle the Caño fountain that provided the village with its water.  Try visiting the interesting Los Baños archaeological centre, with its Arabic hot baths, located opposite the church of San Lázaro.

By following the same road, at the foot of the Sierra Espuña and in the Guadalentín valley, we find Totana.  Here we find the biggest cultivations of nyora, a small, shiny red pepper which is used for making sweet paprika, the ‘secret’ and essential ingredient in Paella.

Greenery in the Sierra Espuña

Eight kilometres from Totana, surrounded by vegetable fields and farmhouses, is La Santa that has been a place of worship since the 13th century.  Reaching the Sanctuary of La Santa, well-known for its extraordinary mural paintings, the road continues by the Vía Crucis (Way of the Cross) to the Mirador del Cristo, a viewing area where the wind carries the aroma of Aleppo Pine, thyme, rosemary and esparto grass.  The route can be concluded with a visit to the administrative town at the centre of the district, Lorca, by returning to Totana and taking the N-340.  Its origins begin in mythology and are known to have been a city under the Romans, Visigoths and Muslims.

The Bourbon Reforms of the 18th Century shaped the town and the old quarter has been declared a Historical and Artistic Complex.  To wander these streets, contemplating the palaces and stately homes of the 18th Century, the convents and the churches, and enjoying the intense activity in the streets, is a fitting way to end this journey through the land of sweet paprika.

Pimenton de Murcia

The secret of Murcian paprika lies in the perfect selection of the nyora.  This is a small, shiny red pepper that is the principal ingredient in many foods.  It comes from the warm, dry region made up of 14 municipalities in Murcia. The paprika is produced using only the bell pepper variety (Capsicum annuum L.).

During the production process, it undergoes a drying process of several days, in the sun or in warm air, followed by numerous phases of light crushing, which turns it into an exclusive red powder with a penetrating odour.  According to the Spanish Nutrition Foundation, it is rich in minerals such as Iron, Magnesium, Potassium and Phosphorus, group B Vitamins, Vitamin A in the form of beta-carotenes and other antioxidants such as Lycopene.
www.pimentondemurcia.org